for your consideration

30 10 2008

i’ve decided.  i like simply being in the world rather than becoming something particular in the world.  being over becoming.  let me explain.  

being is like a dot with potential lines of action emerging from its center.  becoming is like two dots with a line connecting them; a single line of action.  the former assumes a non-linear flow of circumstance and combination and allows for allowance itself, while the latter circumscribes action under the assumption that action leads to a particular, knowable somewhere.  but it strikes me the only thing we can be certain of is the present – now, no now, no now – as the past is an ever-receding(and constantly (re)remembered) fiction and the future is yet to pass.  now is all we know.  it is the extent of our certainty.  

what does this have to do with the rockclimbings?  everything i suppose.  see, i had planned on doing my dissertation on pain, memory, and trauma.  a cool triad of concepts (applause), this body of work would have looked at the language destroying capacity of physical pain, the subject forming capacity of mental anguish, and how we organize both into a discourse on/of trauma.  fun fun fun.  sarcasm aside, it did offer some interesting problems and certainly offered more in the way of ‘jobliness’ than the new dissertation:


Read the rest of this entry »


f%#k it: time off, injuries, and perfect weather

26 10 2008

as none of you know, i recently had to take some time off from climbing to fix some crazy tendonitis in my right arm.  it appears the right arm lock-off reach around move on the corner problem (7C) made my shoulder/elbow/bicep angry – angry enough to take a week off in the midst of epic climbing conditions here in the bluegrass state.  in fact, the micro-trauma was so bad i had decided to take another 5 days off…. until right now.

it’s 60, sunny, dry, and i have a huge bottle of ibuprofen.

here’s to obsession and compulsion.

buy bye,


love song for an area: the cove

22 10 2008

as most of my friends well know – i have a ‘thing’ for bouldering in kentucky.  some might suggest that i don’t have a good aesthetic barometer (i.e. i like “choss”), but the truth is i am just easily stoked on climbing boulders.  i’m a rock ‘whore’ of sorts.  and by that i mean i am hard-pressed to dismiss a rock climb.  the way i see it, if i can’t do it then it needs doing; the forest is full of johns.

while i have long extolled the limited virtues of morehead climbing (a smattering of semi-chossy sandstone pebbles about an hour east of lexington and 30 minutes north of the red river gorge), i have pretty much steered clear of what little bouldering we have in the red river gorge.  it has always seemed a bit ridiculous to head to the red without a rope; millions of posts kindly suggest the same.  and by kindly i mean somewhere between a good flaming and a mob-carry to the scaffold.

but this season i decided to give the red another go with the pad.  not only would this protect me from abject failure on routes (knowing i’m gonna fail before i fail is disheartening), but would give me some much needed power time on the rock before the temps get good down south.

so i took a gander at my trusty red river bouldering guide.  where had i not been?  what had i not found disgustingly awful?  and most importantly, where are the big numbers?  all answers pointed to one locale… Read the rest of this entry »

video killed the rockclimbing star

20 10 2008

i don’t like to sing the praises of this blog.  i’ve tried.  but my voice is really flat.  like the earth, but without the uber-scary drop-off in the middle of the atlantic.  you know, the one just west of the terribly out-of-scale ‘sea beasts’.

yes, yes, we’re very humble here at itcamefromthegarage.  it’s part of our new year’s resolution: “we will lie about our humility”.

in spite of our nearly-opaque hubris, i must point out some successes we have successed recently.

1) we set a single week record for strikethroughs.  just last week the record was 0.  now?  like 5.  nay, make that an even 6.

2) we rockclimbed in nature and – get this – with people.  we had heard tell that this sort of ‘group rockclimbing’ was the “jam”, but had yet to really sink our teeth into it.  you can now consider our teeth sunked.  we might do it again if our craig’s list ads pans out a second time: “SWM seeks raucous rockclimbing posse to cheer success, ignore failure, and buy it stuff”

3) we made a video Read the rest of this entry »

sponsor this, sucka!

16 10 2008

dave macleod’s article on how to get sponsored got me thinking – not surprisingly – about getting sponsored.  i mean, what do i bring to the table? how can i be an asset? what is an asset? can i make a niche? what is a niche?

but rather than sort out the terms of my forthcoming sponsorship i made a list of my sponsorable qualities.  behold them after the jump: Read the rest of this entry »

a tip (or two) for total rock success

16 10 2008

so basically this post stems from two things: 1) lists are easy to write and 2) i’m avoiding writing my dissertation.

i want to clarify what total rock success is all about.  it’s not just about the numbers.  it’s not just about the money.  it’s about sending hard AND getting paid; that’s what i’m talkin’ bout.  wut.  wut.

no, but really, total rock success is about feeling good and feeling like you can send everything – every go.  this ‘list’ o’ tips represents a thing or two i figured out last year, forgot for 11 months, then figured out again last week.  and it’s after the jump. Read the rest of this entry »

etc. etc. etc.

14 10 2008

i was going to take a look at the production of climbing discourse by sorting through the use of particular modifiers to describe routes/problems on  for instance, when was the phrase “full value” first used to describe a route/problem, in what context, and by whom?  how has this phrase proliferated (both in quantity and in/over space)?  my concern isn’t with what “full value” means (though it does strike me that nobody calls anything half-value or quarter value), but rather how our discursive connection to the rock changes over time.  this doesn’t change the experience of actual climbing (in the moment), but it certainly has an effect on our memory of climbs and probably plays a part in defining quality in climbing.  it might also be useful to flip through old guidebooks and older issues of climbing to do similar work.

but i’m not actually gonna write a foucauldian research post.  instead: Read the rest of this entry »