hard-ish kentucky boulder problems (edited november 2009)

13 10 2008

read-write-climb-read-write-climb.  this is what i do when i do stuff.  clearly, this has nothing to do with writing quasi-rock climbing related posts at a little place called ‘it came from the garage’.  clearly.

despite what can only be called an overload of stuff-to-do….i have decided to return.  but rather than bore you with my thoughts on the ever-growing pace of american fascism/nationalism/racism, i thought i would spend a moment compiling a list of kentucky’s hardest boulder (>7B+(v8)) problems.  you know, important stuff.

but seeing as how there isn’t a whole lot of rock up in these here hills, it shouldn’t take long and will thus allow me a quick return to my studies.  /sigh.  next week i might do a list of intermediate hard boulders v6-8.  if you have any additional information to add to this list do not hesitate to drop us a line.  and by ‘line’, i mean a message of some sort.


Covert Methods: 8A+ (v11): Nada/The Cove: How this made it through the Dave Hume crush-a-thon unclimbed is beyond me.  This recent Timy Fairfield addition to kentucky bouldering makes a long move from a good hold into a roof/crimp traverse on a prow.  There is a shorter line going straight up that probably checks in around v9.  It’s worth noting that rocky mountain stud Jamie Emerson gave this an 11/12 when he rockclimbed it last winter.

Center Line (a.k.a. Black Widow): 7C+ (v10/11): Morehead/Sharkey’s: This problem includes long moves, compression, and a thought-provoking topout at 20′.  Was recently repeated given a FA by Louisville’s Mark Osbourne.

Rat City: 7C+ (v10): Rockcastle: Awesomely large moves on big holds in a horizontal roof would make this one of the best in the state, but it’sREAALLLYY  dabby, so there’s that.

Shotgun Wedding: 8A+ (v10): Morehead/Sharkey’s:  it’s hard to grade a dyno, but this thing is hard.  put up a few years ago by a super-athletic tall dude by the name of Rob Cardosi, Shotgun Wedding might be one of the hardes dyno’s in the state  just for comparison, Rob crushed out Hale Bopp (Font) in a few goes, while this beast took him 30 or so goes over a year.

Boulder One Project: 7C+: Rockcastle: This is pretty straight forward.  Start on a jug in the slight overhung face, make a big move to a credit card crimp, wrench to another credit card crimp, and throw big to a jug… It’s bouted a couple strongmos and is still awaiting an FA.

Ghetto Methods: 7C+ (v10): Nada/The Cove: Likely the most repeated hard boulder in kentucky.  Mostly a litmus test for sporto peeps to check their power before the temps get good for pebble wrastlin’, this Dave Hume problem sports stout moves on super-steep terrain.  Sorta has a crunchy awkward start, but the rest is high quality.

The Gotama: 7C (v9): Nada/Military Wall: Never been on this one, but i have taken a gander at it recently and it looks hard.  In fact, it looks sandbagged as hell.  This thing climbs out a big blocky prow on a boulder that’s about 100 yards left of the 5.12 wall at military.






One response

13 10 2008

you make it difficult not to untie the rope and dust off the ol’ fall mat right now.
(i would have this weekend had i not gotten sick).

soon enough- (i put in my notice of termination at work today) november 1st i can officially join the ranks of full-time climber! (you can be my sponsor, if you’re looking for someone to sponsor)

then we’ll see how hard-ish these problems really are!!

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