um dude: the dramas edition

2 11 2008

i like drama.  in high school i would spread vicious rumours just so i could watch two girls slap each other to death at lunch.  my friends thought i was cruel, but none of them had to eat school food so they just chalked said cruelty up to ‘cultural difference’.

but that was then – this is now.  nowadays i eat whatever i want (can afford) for lunch, and avoid the dramas like the plague (though it strikes me plague avoidance was probably quite a task in the ‘plague’ years of europe, which suggests ‘avoiding something like the plague’ means ‘failing to avoid something’).

despite my efforts to skip the dramas – the dramas are out there; they are strong with the rockclimbers.  here is the dramatic situation:

a route exists in the woods in kentucky.  It goes unclimbed for a span of time.  someone climbs it.  hooray!  a bit later someone finds an easier sequence a few feet to the right.  they ask the equipper and the fa if they can add some bolts.  they do.  it’s climbed this way by a few people.  hooray!  recently a spat emerged between two (or more?) rockclimbers concerning the orginal way and the new way.  like adults, they settle this through the alleged stealing of draws from the original and the confirmed hammering of hangers flush with the wall on the new sequence.  as best as i can tell, the bolt pounder argues the new variation should not exist (because it doesn’t match the ‘vision’ of the bolter/fa despite the acquiescence of both regarding additonal bolts).  in addition, if the new variation does exist people should take less points for an ascent.  to make this point, he beat up a bolt.  proponents of said bolt-beating suggest the bolt-beating was okay for the following reasons:

1) this shows people the ‘red’ won’t stand for ‘pros’ adding bolts whenever they like.

(lol.  it’s funny when people single-handedly occupy the position of a community.  if only i could do the same on election day.  obama 08.)

2) the new route is not the ‘real route’ – it’s an eliminate.

(i always thought the eliminate was the harder version?  huh.  didn’t get the memo.)

3) he (the beater) took as stand for what he believes in.

(taking a stand for something wrong shouldn’t be applauded simply because it is a stand)

the more i think about this the more it makes me really sad.  in fact, this might be the lamest thing i’ve heard of in rockclimbings.  what this amounts to in my opinion is someone wants everyone to climb a route a certain way despite the rock allowing otherwise.  boo hoo.  just put tape on the ‘real’ route and call it a day.

tissue

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3 responses

2 11 2008
thereverend

though “irrational,” what would you do if someone(s) stole your draws of aforementioned route 7 times? (note: only the 2 disputed crux draws each time)
not leading here, just asking a question. although it is so easy to pass judgment outside of an issue from after-the-fact.
i guess i just show some sympathy for the beater. i’m not saying he’s a victim; he chose his actions, is an adult, and can take a stand for what he did or apologise.

3 11 2008
tissuetendons

i already answered all these question in the post. but to just solidify:

stolen draws have nothing to do with the integrity of the actual route. sure, one might make the claim there is some sort of equivalence, but they would be wrong.

the only real way to pass judgement is outside of an issue and after-the-fact. otherwise 1) you are misguided by fidelity to the issue, and 2) you are telling the future.

ok. but just to (re)itterate; i really don’t care. what i do care about is that someone doesn’t have the balls to ship the spike on the cinderalla crimp. it doesn’t ‘make’ the problem and – further – ruins 15+ problems over a 2 day span if not dealt with quickly. f*&k that spike.

3 11 2008
thereverend

i think there is even a spike of worser proportions on cleopatra!

and i’m ready for some new drama… this WAS humurous, but is just old hat now.

a new post, please.(!).

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