jon glassberg interview feat. jon glassberg (slo ride mix)

25 02 2009

the basis for the worst "into the light" story ever

this is the first in a series of interviews i’m conducting with southern climbers before they all move to the frontrange.  i’ve tentatively titled this series: “interviews with southern climbers before they move to the frontrange”.

jon glassberg interview feat.  jon glassberg (slo ride mix)

when Jon is not directing short films about tortilla chips he also climbs boulder problems.  he climbs hard boulder problems.  one might call him a hard boulder problem climber person.  evidence?  we’re only 90 days into 2009 and he has already repeated James Litz’s Testify (v12) at the Lilly Boulders, sent mega-classic The Shield (v12) at Little Rock City, while also finding time to tick his own Sittin’ Sidewayz (v11) at Grandmother Mountain near his home base in Boone.  this is where we should say: “we recently caught up with Jon and got to ask him a few questions”, but let’s be honest: sending emails hardly qualifies as ‘catching up’.

so you’ve had a great year so far; would you attribute that mostly to your intense pull up regimen or the crunches you do to keep your abs, like, totally ripped?

I attribute good climbing to being free from school and girls.  I have a serious case of graduate senioritis and I am free of any lady distractions for the first time in 6 years, so having a free and clear mind has been really helpful, all I have to do now is drop this damn job and its on!

But seriously…

It’s all about breaking through barriers for me.  Once I realized that I could climb hard it all kind of happened.  I train in the gym and circuit at the local boulder fields a lot and it really helps to have good climbing partners who push you… blah blah blah…  Climb all the time and you will climb better, oh and don’t forget P90 Ab Ripper X!!!!!

climbing in Europe seems pretty cool.  different languages, walkable cities, and, if the rumors are true, they might have a couple decent boulder problems.  any plans to get over there and check out the potential yourself?

Europe is still a little while from happening.  Money is the main issue with that right now but don’t get me wrong I have a list in my mind a mile long.  I have a few places to stay over there now so I am definitely planning something in the back of my mind.  Isn’t South Africa the new Europe anyway?

what about the US?  i’ve read on your blog you are planning a trip to Bishop soon; any big projects there or elsewhere you really want to get on this year?

Yes.  I am excited about Bishop and getting on some classics with good people.  I haven’t been there during the season yet and I really want to get on The Mandala, Xavier’s Roof, Spectre and Evilution to name a few.  We are heading there with a decent sized crew and there will be a whole pile of other great friends meeting us there so it should be a wild time.

Other than that I am moving to Boulder in May indefinitely.  I fell in love with alpine bouldering last summer and I really want to get back up to RMNP and Mt. Evans to finish off some business.  Joe’s is on the list as well as Hueco next winter but who knows…

in addition to pebble crushing you are also a graduate student in graphic design.  do you have plans to incorporate your art into your climbing life or are the two more or less separate?

Working in the industry and climbing are certainly two very separate entities and right now it is very hard to make a living strictly as a climber.  The money is in brand identity and design work for large business so I would like to find a happy medium.  Whether it is branding for a climbing company like La Sportiva, The North Face, or Mountain Hardwear or just freelancing and making it on my own, I would like to keep it in the family and do what I love for companies that share the same passion.

you have quite bit of experience in both national comps and climbing in a number of locales, do you find big regional differences in climbing scenes or are they more or less the same?

Every region of the country has very strong climbers but some have more than others… New England is stacked with strong climbers who all compete very well and Colorado is just plain intimidating so when I travel to those areas to compete I know that it is going to be on.  Competing in the Southeast is really fun and there is a community of fit guys killing it down here so it is fun to go to comps and just have a good time and battle it out.  Competitions are the best training you could have because you push yourself beyond the average gym session and that strength translates to the rock quite nicely.

Album of the Year (2008)?  Take your time with this one.

M83, Saturdays = Youth…  no wait, Cool Kids, The Bake Sale… or maybe, Crystal Castles… no no, Lupe Fiasco, Food & Liquor…  I mean, Paul Wall, Sittin Sidewayz…  no it was M83.  We Own The Sky!!!  It just feels right…

thanks jon!





2 responses

27 02 2009

i ran into this guy at rocktoberfest, i believe it was, this past fall when i was climbing with my friends adam and rachel. it was a fun day; i think we hit up some of the “easier” classics.

anyway, maybe i’ll see you out in bishop, john. good luck on everything!

4 03 2009
Webb & Glassberg Repeat The New Zero (V13) | Climbing Narcissist

[…] For more on Jon Glassberg, check out a recent interview he did with It Came From The Garage. […]

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