fa’s, projects, or circuits? oh my!

16 03 2009


you know life is good when you’re struggling to divy your free-time between putting up 7-10 new boulders in a day or going back to tick the harder ones you’ve passed up.  but with spring’s bag o’ t(r)icks (bugs, heat, poison ivy, etc..) on the way, the problem has become a bit more pointed.  how so?  well, if i go after fa’s then my projects might be unclimbable in a few weeks.  but if i go after projects then the fa’s might be unreachable/invisible before the end of the month.  this, my friends, is truly a question of more or ‘more’.  like choosing food at an Indian restaurant.

but i think i’m going to go with more; in the way of difficulty.  since i’ve entered into the total awesomeness that is developing problems in kentucky, i haven’t really spent much time working anything.  sure, there are several problems i haven’t done on the first day *cough*, but i’ve either 1) done them on the second day, or 2) have been reasonably sure i could do them whenever i happened upon them again, thus freeing myself to not do them at all.  i have a few problems to get to in the latter category, but what i’m really interested in is something that might take me several days to finish; a mode of climbing i have very little experience in.  in fact, i can only think of one boulder problem that went from totally impossible to finished in a season: Lockdown. an old school (and, prior to my intellectual labor, totally unnamed) Bob Murray v8 at the Silverbell Boulders in Tucson (so like new school v10 in hueco).  on day one my efforts seemed useless, but i continued to try the impossible start over and over until one day i could hold the move for a second, then two, then three, and so on and so forth.  slowly but surely my body learned the moves until one day i was able to complete the line.

i only mention Lockdown because had i stumbled upon this boulder while on a trip down south (hp40, lrc, rocktown) i would have given it a quick go, probably failed, and then kept moving to generate some value out of my 8 hour roundtrip drive.  but living 20 minutes away from a project changes the logistics a bit.  and so it was with Lockdown, which i sent in 9 days.  from zero to fist pumping in less time than it takes to study for the GRE.  9 days less to be exact.  pretty cool.

and so here i am again trying to wrap my head around two problems which seem totally impossible for me.  trying to convince myself that i just need to give them some time rather than scurry off into the easy-win world of development.  but to be honest, i’m not sure i can make it.

i think my climb-agination is broken.

in the last few years i’ve become so sure of my ability to ‘peg’ my limits that i’m having a hard time convincing myself to try something that seems outlandish.  and so i enter into this week of climbing intent on failure…for the sake of failure.

got boulder problem projecting tips, ideas, or strategies?  feel free to let me know.





One response

17 03 2009

Bummer having to decide between climbing and climbing, eh? Wouldn’t you rather be deciding between not climbing and climbing at the gym? So much easier!

But and so yeah, in terms of projecting, I’ve got no groundbreaking thoughts. Seems like a good idea to nail down the parts you can do so tight you couldn’t possibly feck ’em up. Then when you do pull the impossible bit, you can cruise to victory.

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