Half-Long Hiatus: The (re)Return of the Return Post

31 01 2013

i think this is a phoenix

here we go again.  the fifth or six (re)revival of this blog.  standard blog crap, i know, but i make no apologies for the lull and no promises for better production.  it is what it is.

short sentences and sporadic content.  hooray.

but for some reason i kinda think this ‘go’ is built to last.  special, even.  why?  i actually have an urge to write things… with WORDS.  my daily as a stay-at-home-dad has left my brain in shambles; baby talk and lack of sleep have given me a sort of post-modern slackjawism that i really need to buck even if it only involves the pointless shallow self-talk of a climbing blog (huzzah!).  so there’s the therapeutic value.  it better work because i’m billing myself 150/hr.

i’ve also incorporated a few fundamental changes to format and content to make it easier to maintain my stride.  first off, the old lolwebz format/voice is dead.  i’m sure it still perseveres somewhere in the internetswebosphere, but it has suffered the great editorial axe here at It Came from the Garage.  if nothing else, we try desperately to hover at the bleeding edge of cultural relevance.

booya.  who’s your daddy?  where’s the beef?

second, the revival is actually just a brand new thing rather than a full-fledged comeback tour.   think Phish rather than the Dead.   totally not the same band (but sorta kinda the same exact band).  the new new raison d’etre of this space is less focused on the cultural detritus of climbing and more textually aimed at training for climbing and – you know – actual climbing.  we aren’t completely canning the cultural hooha but its taking a definite back seat to my riveting tales of pullups, situps, and jumping jacks (all three pivotal elements of a climbing training regiment).

on the training front you might expect description rather than prescription.  of course, you’re free to do whatever you want (kinda), but my masochism shouldn’t necessarily be copied.  think i’m a kook?  awesome.  think i’m onto something.   cool.

hopefully i can keep this riveting enough to keep you coming back for more.



Everything Sucks: Please Shut Up, You’re a Noob

21 02 2012

overhanging crimp ladder. /yawn

they hate this problem.  they hate this crag.  its dirty.  its dabby.  its in the shade.  its reachy.  bears.  its too close to the road.  its runout.  its contrived.  its soft.  a bunch of permas.  its stupid.  its a dropoff.  too many spraylords.  the approach sucks.  it smells bad.  the landing sucks.  its in the sun.  its sandbagged.  its grid bolted.  there are dogs.  its crunchy.  its polished.  there are noobs there.  no permas.

fuck this place.  everything sucks.

sound familiar?  well it should because this is as good as it’s gonna get.

2012 bitches.  we’re all gonna die anyhow so we might as well hone up our douchery as a prologue.

now where’d i put my jambox?  puppy and cooler are already in the car; time to go climbing.

distance, hearts, and fondness

1 06 2010

8a.nu Research Harem

three important ingredients: 1) Jens “Hey I Don’t Understand What Debate Means” Larssen (Founder of 8a.nu and General Innovator) 2) 8a.nu (news and quantitative spray/”debate” site), and 3) my distance from the much-loathed but still popular site ((time+space/8a.nu)+me).  it was all there.  fondness, however, not so much.  when i returned i found this*:

* bold emphasis mine.


Jamie Emerson is working on a topo for RMNP where Jade is located giving him a delicate issue, that in a way also describes grading theory, and the problem for 8a once producing news.

Jade seems to be a reachy one move problem that Daniel Woods, 168 cm?, did in 2007. In the 2008 8a yearbook, Björn Pohl appointed it to be one of the Top-10 most difficult problem in the world. It has been, rather quickly, repeated by five taller guys but no suggested downgrade before Carlo Traversi did so last week.

It is totally understandable that nobody has mentioned a down grade before as this should only be done when you feel something is totally wrong. Carlo has not done 8B+ and crimps are not his strong point. In the video, Carlo says it felt like 7C+ on the ascent.

Grades are delicate matters but if we only base it on feelings and consensus, we will never get it right. We must include second opinions, facts and Time Comparison Grading analyses. A topo producer or 8a can not just wait until another five guys like Carlo has suggested another grade.

Already in March the topo producer Jamie Emerson speculated about Jade being 8B+. Now, Paul Robinson says he is OK with this. My point here is if Daniel Woods have suggested an 8B+ FA grade, probably all of the repeaters would have agreed on that in the same way they agreed on 8C.

If we think grades are important I think a slash grade 8B+/8C is appropriate but if we do NOT think grades are so important and accurate, I would go for Jamie Emerson gut feeling.

I would also like to underline that it is just natural that the FA’s can not get it right 100 %. Daniel Woods has been leading the pack by 12 first ascent boulders graded 8B+ to 8C+. He has a clean record showing that he is very capable of suggesting humble FA grades. He has been a true role model since he was 19-years-old!

two reactions: 1) “bro, whaaaaaaaaaat?” and 2) SCIENCE!!!!



daniel woods explains nomenclature win

17 02 2010

either this diagram is sexist, or i'm sexistly interpreting it...

daniel woods  —->

At the Vertical Carnival blog, Cedar Wright, who filmed Woods’ ascent of The Game, quoted him on the name: “I called this problem The Game because for me the climb was a game I had to play; I had to click into game mode, and really train myself for these moves. I had to grow mentally strong and also physically strong to be able to put it together. I call it The Game because I played the game and I ended up winning the game, so game over.”

game over, indeed.

bravo, daniel.  bravo.



12 02 2010

we'll always have post #34

so.  um.  yeah.

this site, once home to my frustration with being a world-class rock-scaling machine, has – for the moment – passed into the interweb shadow world.

i’d like to thank all the readers, linkers, commenters, sponsors, and flamers who helped make this site one the most important blogs in the history of america.

indeed, with your support we helped push climbing standards forward by months, thought of new and better ways to win at life, and helped elect Obama. we also learned a thing or two about friendship along the way.  and honesty.  and ethics.

gah.  we learned SOOOO much.