distance, hearts, and fondness

1 06 2010

8a.nu Research Harem

three important ingredients: 1) Jens “Hey I Don’t Understand What Debate Means” Larssen (Founder of 8a.nu and General Innovator) 2) 8a.nu (news and quantitative spray/”debate” site), and 3) my distance from the much-loathed but still popular site ((time+space/8a.nu)+me).  it was all there.  fondness, however, not so much.  when i returned i found this*:

* bold emphasis mine.

Debate/Jens:

Jamie Emerson is working on a topo for RMNP where Jade is located giving him a delicate issue, that in a way also describes grading theory, and the problem for 8a once producing news.

Jade seems to be a reachy one move problem that Daniel Woods, 168 cm?, did in 2007. In the 2008 8a yearbook, Björn Pohl appointed it to be one of the Top-10 most difficult problem in the world. It has been, rather quickly, repeated by five taller guys but no suggested downgrade before Carlo Traversi did so last week.

It is totally understandable that nobody has mentioned a down grade before as this should only be done when you feel something is totally wrong. Carlo has not done 8B+ and crimps are not his strong point. In the video, Carlo says it felt like 7C+ on the ascent.

Grades are delicate matters but if we only base it on feelings and consensus, we will never get it right. We must include second opinions, facts and Time Comparison Grading analyses. A topo producer or 8a can not just wait until another five guys like Carlo has suggested another grade.

Already in March the topo producer Jamie Emerson speculated about Jade being 8B+. Now, Paul Robinson says he is OK with this. My point here is if Daniel Woods have suggested an 8B+ FA grade, probably all of the repeaters would have agreed on that in the same way they agreed on 8C.

If we think grades are important I think a slash grade 8B+/8C is appropriate but if we do NOT think grades are so important and accurate, I would go for Jamie Emerson gut feeling.

I would also like to underline that it is just natural that the FA’s can not get it right 100 %. Daniel Woods has been leading the pack by 12 first ascent boulders graded 8B+ to 8C+. He has a clean record showing that he is very capable of suggesting humble FA grades. He has been a true role model since he was 19-years-old!

two reactions: 1) “bro, whaaaaaaaaaat?” and 2) SCIENCE!!!!

GTFO

-tt/milyoo

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Music Stuffs: The Thanksgiving Edition

20 11 2009

i tried out for this band, but my suit wasn't "shiny" enough

i don’t believe in god.  sure, i think he is totally going to destroy us all in 2012 with the help of our arch-nemesis Mayan Calender, but i don’t so much  believe in “him”.  in fact, i don’t actually believe in anything, other than math and whatever i happen to be watching on television.   so with little or no “belief magic” you can imagine how stoked i am for thanksgiving.  yes, nothing gets me hyped on binge-eating quite like celebrating native americans teaching white people how not to starve in 1621… only to be almost entirely decimated by their dinner guests over the next 200 years.

TOUCHDOWN!

but this year i’m going climbing (v14+/5.14c+).  then i’m going home (house).  then i’m listening to music (GOOD).  and it probably will sound like this:

paul white is the man.  click on the above image for a free download…

people.  listen to me.  this might be the best beats album of all time.  seriously.  i don’t lie about this kind of stuff.  in fact, outside of taxes and my entire high school sexual history – i don’t lie about anything.  except that one time when i was on vacation.  yes, that really happened.  really.

given the infantile attention span of – well – most everyone, this is probably considered old (it came out a year ago – GASP!).  i forgot where i was going with this, but i just bought this Starkey album yesterday, which makes me both really excited and also, like, WAY behind.  at any rate, this song is awesome.  rowdy r&b flavored bass music.

in what appears to be a trend, here is yet another artist who is a decade younger than me who I am totally in like with.  this remix by Joy Orbison basically takes everything awesome in music and crunches up into something more awesome than all the parts.  in other words – 5/5 – ***** – 10/10 – 8A

 

-tissue/milyoo/tommy





Facebook is 4 Noobs

22 09 2009

HowtoFacebook-main_Full

no this post isn’t about how we should pal up on ye old facebook.  i’ve got plenty of friends.  and by friends i mean people who are barely acquaintances; a group which dwindles with each and every status update/status flame I deliver.  i’m like the Santa Claus for people who thrive on well-written hostility.

no, dear reader.  this post isn’t about how bold i am on the interwebs.  how tough i am in cyberspace.  nope, it’s all about noobs.  i’ll explain.

see, i’ve been interwebbing for over a decade.  flames.  trolls.  WTF???!!!  telling people to go “f/k themselves with their stupid f/king mouse” since about 1999.  now it’s not like i’m the only one.  clearly there had to be – at the very least – one other person for me to vent on.  in fact, thanks to sci-fi novels and dungeons and dragons there were a TON of people to vent on.  point is, this whole mess has been going on for awhile.

fast forward to right now:

is it just me or do other long-time interwebbers get the feeling that Facebook people are f/king noobs at this whole virtual communications game?  can’t flame someone on FB without someone pulling the entire thread.  explain to someone why they’re wrong?  the snub you IRL (that’s ‘in real life’  noob).  ZOMG WTFLOLBBQ!!!!!  IT”S LIKE THEY JUST ARRIVED ON EARTH.  JUST NOW.

i dunno about you, but i liked the interwebbage better when it was just me and the other nerds who knew what an URL was.

yours in rockclimbing splendor,

-t





Musical Stuff (or) Why I Don’t Write Blog Stuffs Nomores

20 09 2009

hey folks.  i hate to use this blog to discuss anything other than 1) the #!*@*$ turd that is rockclimbings culture, 2) how skilled i am at analyzing turd residue, and 3) how i plan to win at rockclimbing, BUT i’m so syyyyykkkked on this batch of music (that I WROTE WITH MY MIND) i cannot help but spoil the sanctity of icftg.com.

may the climbing gods forgive us all.  yes, i’m talking about you Sherma.  forgiveness brah, forgiveness.

the style is sorta garage-glitchy dubstep.  so, yeah, it’s kinda not in a ‘style’ per se.  but you should check it out anyhow.

cheers.

-t





things i hate: bouldery routes

3 06 2009

10-Things-I-Hate-About-You-7393834138401-01

i am not really a breakdancer.  i am a boulderer. *SURPRISE!*  white, american. hetero, male, boulderer.  i know because it says so on the ‘contact information’ card in my Trapper Keeper ©.  right under the part where my mom wrote: “believe in yourself pookie!”.

thanks mom.  pookie did.  until he started trying to climb ‘bouldery routes‘. Read the rest of this entry »





champ pants: dreams can happen

16 05 2009
mammut-champ-pants-mens1

mammut champ pants: modern day nobility trousers?

omg.  finally.  this just goes to show that if you try hard enough, train long enough, and give it your all – you can get yourself some really amazing king-pants….. for right around $150.00.  i know, right?  B-A-R-G-A-I-N-!!!!!!!!

and i guess if was in the market for some pants that said “i win at pant wearing AND i’m running up a credit card in anticipation of a consumer debt bailout”  i’d have to wrangle me up some of these high brow thigh veneers.  anything less would be second place.  or worse: third.  *yack*  uhg.  sorry.  mediocrity makes me nauseous.  Read the rest of this entry »





enemy mine: spurt climbin’ ethic time

12 05 2009

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sometimes i wake up and think to myself “where am i?”  and then i’m all like “AHA!!!”  that’s because i know where i am AND i like to let myself know with exclamatronics.  and, yes, i sometimes make up cool words to describe the banal.  ima banalinator.

whoops, i did it again. Read the rest of this entry »