things i hate: bouldery routes

3 06 2009

10-Things-I-Hate-About-You-7393834138401-01

i am not really a breakdancer.  i am a boulderer. *SURPRISE!*  white, american. hetero, male, boulderer.  i know because it says so on the ‘contact information’ card in my Trapper Keeper ©.  right under the part where my mom wrote: “believe in yourself pookie!”.

thanks mom.  pookie did.  until he started trying to climb ‘bouldery routes‘. Read the rest of this entry »

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um dude: the dramas edition

2 11 2008

i like drama.  in high school i would spread vicious rumours just so i could watch two girls slap each other to death at lunch.  my friends thought i was cruel, but none of them had to eat school food so they just chalked said cruelty up to ‘cultural difference’.

but that was then – this is now.  nowadays i eat whatever i want (can afford) for lunch, and avoid the dramas like the plague (though it strikes me plague avoidance was probably quite a task in the ‘plague’ years of europe, which suggests ‘avoiding something like the plague’ means ‘failing to avoid something’).

despite my efforts to skip the dramas – the dramas are out there; they are strong with the rockclimbers.  here is the dramatic situation: Read the rest of this entry »





love song for an area: the cove

22 10 2008

as most of my friends well know – i have a ‘thing’ for bouldering in kentucky.  some might suggest that i don’t have a good aesthetic barometer (i.e. i like “choss”), but the truth is i am just easily stoked on climbing boulders.  i’m a rock ‘whore’ of sorts.  and by that i mean i am hard-pressed to dismiss a rock climb.  the way i see it, if i can’t do it then it needs doing; the forest is full of johns.

while i have long extolled the limited virtues of morehead climbing (a smattering of semi-chossy sandstone pebbles about an hour east of lexington and 30 minutes north of the red river gorge), i have pretty much steered clear of what little bouldering we have in the red river gorge.  it has always seemed a bit ridiculous to head to the red without a rope; millions of redriverclimbing.com posts kindly suggest the same.  and by kindly i mean somewhere between a good flaming and a mob-carry to the scaffold.

but this season i decided to give the red another go with the pad.  not only would this protect me from abject failure on routes (knowing i’m gonna fail before i fail is disheartening), but would give me some much needed power time on the rock before the temps get good down south.

so i took a gander at my trusty red river bouldering guide.  where had i not been?  what had i not found disgustingly awful?  and most importantly, where are the big numbers?  all answers pointed to one locale… Read the rest of this entry »





video killed the rockclimbing star

20 10 2008

i don’t like to sing the praises of this blog.  i’ve tried.  but my voice is really flat.  like the earth, but without the uber-scary drop-off in the middle of the atlantic.  you know, the one just west of the terribly out-of-scale ‘sea beasts’.

yes, yes, we’re very humble here at itcamefromthegarage.  it’s part of our new year’s resolution: “we will lie about our humility”.

in spite of our nearly-opaque hubris, i must point out some successes we have successed recently.

1) we set a single week record for strikethroughs.  just last week the record was 0.  now?  like 5.  nay, make that an even 6.

2) we rockclimbed in nature and – get this – with people.  we had heard tell that this sort of ‘group rockclimbing’ was the “jam”, but had yet to really sink our teeth into it.  you can now consider our teeth sunked.  we might do it again if our craig’s list ads pans out a second time: “SWM seeks raucous rockclimbing posse to cheer success, ignore failure, and buy it stuff”

3) we made a video Read the rest of this entry »





hard-ish kentucky boulder problems (edited november 2009)

13 10 2008

read-write-climb-read-write-climb.  this is what i do when i do stuff.  clearly, this has nothing to do with writing quasi-rock climbing related posts at a little place called ‘it came from the garage’.  clearly.

despite what can only be called an overload of stuff-to-do….i have decided to return.  but rather than bore you with my thoughts on the ever-growing pace of american fascism/nationalism/racism, i thought i would spend a moment compiling a list of kentucky’s hardest boulder (>7B+(v8)) problems.  you know, important stuff.

but seeing as how there isn’t a whole lot of rock up in these here hills, it shouldn’t take long and will thus allow me a quick return to my studies.  /sigh.  next week i might do a list of intermediate hard boulders v6-8.  if you have any additional information to add to this list do not hesitate to drop us a line.  and by ‘line’, i mean a message of some sort. Read the rest of this entry »





why can’t fall not mean “bolderin’ time”

15 09 2008

so much training happened in my garage this summer.  4×4’s, 65 move 3 rest ‘routes’, and enough running to make up for the 1.3 million cigarettes i’ve smoked in the last decade.  all of this ‘work’ – keep in mind – was meant to get ready for fall so i could be fit enough to tick off 13a (both enduro style and power style).  goals, goals, goals.  yet here we are – right on the cusp of fall – and all i can think about is gettin’ my bolderin’ on.  i have a few theories as to why this happens EVERY YEAR.

1) i have like 1 friend stoked on sport climbing.

2) the person i climb with the most doesn’t know how to belay.

3) bouldering doesn’t require a belayer.

4) i don’t have to stop and clip on boulder problems.

5) i still don’t have great endurance.

6) bolderin’ is totally awesome.

7) horsepens isn’t a sport crag.

tissue “goin’ sporto this weekend?” tendons





fall is coming

8 09 2008

despite coming off a full weekend of hangover-producing graduate school shenanigans, it has been brought to my attention (by nature no less) that fall is coming.  and with fall?:  

rockclimbings.

in fact, i’m heading to military in 15 minutes.  gonna get my ’12 wall’ trifecta on.

booyah.  (it’s how the kids say “see, i am doing this”)

 

-tissue