love song for an area: the cove

22 10 2008

as most of my friends well know – i have a ‘thing’ for bouldering in kentucky.  some might suggest that i don’t have a good aesthetic barometer (i.e. i like “choss”), but the truth is i am just easily stoked on climbing boulders.  i’m a rock ‘whore’ of sorts.  and by that i mean i am hard-pressed to dismiss a rock climb.  the way i see it, if i can’t do it then it needs doing; the forest is full of johns.

while i have long extolled the limited virtues of morehead climbing (a smattering of semi-chossy sandstone pebbles about an hour east of lexington and 30 minutes north of the red river gorge), i have pretty much steered clear of what little bouldering we have in the red river gorge.  it has always seemed a bit ridiculous to head to the red without a rope; millions of redriverclimbing.com posts kindly suggest the same.  and by kindly i mean somewhere between a good flaming and a mob-carry to the scaffold.

but this season i decided to give the red another go with the pad.  not only would this protect me from abject failure on routes (knowing i’m gonna fail before i fail is disheartening), but would give me some much needed power time on the rock before the temps get good down south.

so i took a gander at my trusty red river bouldering guide.  where had i not been?  what had i not found disgustingly awful?  and most importantly, where are the big numbers?  all answers pointed to one locale… Read the rest of this entry »

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video killed the rockclimbing star

20 10 2008

i don’t like to sing the praises of this blog.  i’ve tried.  but my voice is really flat.  like the earth, but without the uber-scary drop-off in the middle of the atlantic.  you know, the one just west of the terribly out-of-scale ‘sea beasts’.

yes, yes, we’re very humble here at itcamefromthegarage.  it’s part of our new year’s resolution: “we will lie about our humility”.

in spite of our nearly-opaque hubris, i must point out some successes we have successed recently.

1) we set a single week record for strikethroughs.  just last week the record was 0.  now?  like 5.  nay, make that an even 6.

2) we rockclimbed in nature and – get this – with people.  we had heard tell that this sort of ‘group rockclimbing’ was the “jam”, but had yet to really sink our teeth into it.  you can now consider our teeth sunked.  we might do it again if our craig’s list ads pans out a second time: “SWM seeks raucous rockclimbing posse to cheer success, ignore failure, and buy it stuff”

3) we made a video Read the rest of this entry »





hate nature locally

27 03 2008

want to make the vast majority of your friends salivate over your bulging back muscles as you regale them with stories of your sordid conquest of v10? don’t want to drive 4 hours to do it? afraid it might rain?

the answer: the Cove. dry, close, and according to jemerson “a powerband with lots of potential for hard problems”. blam.

directions: drive 0.6 miles from the Nada tunnel past a steep, right hairpin turn and look for a pulloff on the right. cross the road and follow the obvious trail up to the first cliff then traverse left along the trail. eventually the trail heads uphill again to the right and ends at The Cove.

for more information grab the guidebook from the bottom of the bookshelf in my living room.

for more awesome video action of jemerson crushing stuff globally goto b3 bouldering.

to sort out how to climb v10 goto Neil Gresham’s training site.