distance, hearts, and fondness

1 06 2010

8a.nu Research Harem

three important ingredients: 1) Jens “Hey I Don’t Understand What Debate Means” Larssen (Founder of 8a.nu and General Innovator) 2) 8a.nu (news and quantitative spray/”debate” site), and 3) my distance from the much-loathed but still popular site ((time+space/8a.nu)+me).  it was all there.  fondness, however, not so much.  when i returned i found this*:

* bold emphasis mine.


Jamie Emerson is working on a topo for RMNP where Jade is located giving him a delicate issue, that in a way also describes grading theory, and the problem for 8a once producing news.

Jade seems to be a reachy one move problem that Daniel Woods, 168 cm?, did in 2007. In the 2008 8a yearbook, Björn Pohl appointed it to be one of the Top-10 most difficult problem in the world. It has been, rather quickly, repeated by five taller guys but no suggested downgrade before Carlo Traversi did so last week.

It is totally understandable that nobody has mentioned a down grade before as this should only be done when you feel something is totally wrong. Carlo has not done 8B+ and crimps are not his strong point. In the video, Carlo says it felt like 7C+ on the ascent.

Grades are delicate matters but if we only base it on feelings and consensus, we will never get it right. We must include second opinions, facts and Time Comparison Grading analyses. A topo producer or 8a can not just wait until another five guys like Carlo has suggested another grade.

Already in March the topo producer Jamie Emerson speculated about Jade being 8B+. Now, Paul Robinson says he is OK with this. My point here is if Daniel Woods have suggested an 8B+ FA grade, probably all of the repeaters would have agreed on that in the same way they agreed on 8C.

If we think grades are important I think a slash grade 8B+/8C is appropriate but if we do NOT think grades are so important and accurate, I would go for Jamie Emerson gut feeling.

I would also like to underline that it is just natural that the FA’s can not get it right 100 %. Daniel Woods has been leading the pack by 12 first ascent boulders graded 8B+ to 8C+. He has a clean record showing that he is very capable of suggesting humble FA grades. He has been a true role model since he was 19-years-old!

two reactions: 1) “bro, whaaaaaaaaaat?” and 2) SCIENCE!!!!




Time Machine Accoutrements

27 11 2009

things i hate: hatred

4 06 2009

landlines. omg. the 90's were hell.

i was rereading my post from yesterday and i think i might have jumped the gun a bit.  i mean, sure, i’ve been totally shut down on two three ‘bouldery’ routes in the last few weeks, and sure it makes me wanna rethink my strate..

*rage blackout*

what was i talking about?

oh, right.  hatred.  yeah.  it’s wrong.  especially in climbing.  because it’s all like about being with nature.  not like sexually.  natural sex is gross.  but like, you know, getting all in-the-flow with flowers and dirt and stuff is pretty good.  like the new prana look.  it’s so with nature because it’s all about doing natural stuff…. IN nature.  look after the jump: Read the rest of this entry »

movie music motivation magic: you’re the best!

24 04 2009

in what might (but probably won’t) become a regular thing, we here at icftg.com have decided to end each week with a bit of motivational music movie magic music…magic.   this week’s feature is joe esposito’s Karate Kid classic ‘you’re the best’.  we’ve not only imbeeded the youtube footage, but we’ve also included the lyrics (with commentary).

enjoy your weekend and try not to chuff harder than you send.  you know who you are.

Read the rest of this entry »

the routes doth call

20 04 2009


you ever look at pictures of sport climbing and say to yourself “man, that looks badass!”?

yeah, me neither.  i mean, why would i want to do several boulder problems in a row when i’m already having so much fun doing them in the single?  plus. if you need more than two hands to count the number of moves in a problem, it’s no longer climbing.  it’s math.

Read the rest of this entry »

learning things about stuff

14 04 2009
horses and hearts?  i

horses and hearts? now that is a ladies lady. i'd imagine there is probably a herd of mustangs enroute to their local country-western bar as i speak.

i’ve learned two things this week:

1) ‘the guy’ is not a douche bag.  i just talked to him on the phone and it turns out that we were arguing about completely different things.  like star wars aficionados discussing the ins and outs of space physics with trekkies, neither one of us really had a clue which space the other was referring to.  and by space i mean context and not the dark stuff in the sky that surrounds heaven.  and by heaven i mean the cloud city where jesus lives.  ah.  so much magic and so little time.  /sniffle.

so, yes, it seems the guy had been given some terribly inaccurate information about yours truly and – like so many interweb squabbles – it kinda got outta hand.  in fact, after a whopping hour-long conversation it turns out ‘the guy’ is really nice and very cool.  this just goes to show – AGAIN – turn based email doesn’t really allow for the same amount of conversational complexity as a live conversation.  i know.  i’m as shocked as you are.  edit: for some awesome lulz about interweb flamings check this out. NSFW.

2) kentucky bouldering season, like so many niche retail stores, has officially closed.  why you ask?  while i would like to blame this on obama and his economy mauling buddies leo tolstoy and karl marx,  i fear i cannot.  mostly because his buddies are long dead, and obama himself is about as marxist as a bus full of young republicans.  the only difference?  obama probably doesn’t tell ‘black’ jokes when nobody is around to cry foul.  but if he does – wow – that would be totally f***ing awkward for his staffers.   Read the rest of this entry »

the one year anniversary post

26 03 2009


just a little more than 12 months ago this little blog started with a single post.  like most blogs it used simple words to relay ideas to readers. but it also used super-secret mental brain waves to transmit advertisements into the drinking water of every climbing gym in the world.  the results?  74 posts, 247 comments, nearly 20,000 hits, and a forthcoming class action suit from the entire climbing community.

i would like to take this time to thank everyone for reading.  without you all i’d have is this totally useless advertisement-to-water mental telepathy power. Read the rest of this entry »